Dangari Kuru (3150m) is located 5 kilometres beyond Chhatar Ghuni. From here, a side valley, Sachiokuh Gol, leads south over a pass and then east to Sor Laspur through the Bashqar Gol. The U502 Churrai (NI 43- 1) map portrays this unnamed passed incorrectly. The pass is higher (5070 meters) and entirely glaciated. It requires a steep glaciated ascent and descent with significant crevasse and is not practicable for trekkers.

The Gujar huts of Dukadaki are one kilometer beyond Dangari Kuru. The U502 Mastuj (NJ 43-13) map depicts a route north from Dukadaki along the Mastuj River through a 4633m pass. This steep road, which appears to be no longer used, is unknown to both Golen and Reshun residents. The houses of Chakoli Bokht (3600m), located 5 kilometers outside Dukadaki in a stony desolate terrain, are where the Golen Gol inhabitants manage their sheep and goats. Springs pour from the cliff's foot, and a patch of grass is encircled by talus-covered hills.

Cross the talus fields and two side streams from the north and go for the cliffs at the base of the Golen Glacier beyond the last grass at Chakoli Bokht. Six kilometers from Chakoli Bokht, reach the three little stone shelters against the cliff known as Jeshtanan camp (4050m).

There is wonderful, clear water around this attractive, albeit occasionally windy, site. According to locals, jeshtan spirits are occasionally observed at this location. They are small beings the size of children, with only a small, pointed hat the color of juniper wood on their heads. The name is related to the Kalashamun term jestak and comes from the Sanskrit word jyestah, which means "eldest" or "first."

Ascend the lateral moraine following the true right (north) bank of the outwash stream of the Golen Glacier. The moraine has some sparse grass growing on it, but it's largely talus and the slope is steep. Reach the summit of the ascent 112 to two hours after leaving camp. Turn left 40 degrees and head up an unusual-looking talus slope until the trail levels off with a black moraine ahead and a green hilltop on the right. Ascend massive Class 2 granite stones for one to 112 hours to a pleasant grassy region teeming with wildflowers and snowcocks. Ascend the talus more gradually towards the pass from here. You might come upon the remains of an old trail, which was made for a previous Mehtar of Chitral to ride his horse across. The ancient trail is erased on the final hard ascent to the pass until near the summit when water and the trail reappear. Phargam An (4975m) takes 412 to 6 hours to reach. A metal plaque near the summit commemorates an Austrian mountaineering casually, Gorge Kronberger, who lies forever in the glacier'.

Expect some snow on the pass-through mid-August, as well as a small cornice on its north side. The descent goes via talus, with the old trail appearing on occasion, until you reach the grassy, flower-filled stream ibex habitat. Snow leopards are undoubtedly present, however, they are rarely sighted. You can camp here and still go to Harchin in a day if you start early the next morning.

A rocky hill lies just beyond this point. Leave it to the left and proceed down a steep slope. The historic route and lovely streams can be seen below. Flowers and low willows abound, and on a hot day, the stream is calm and clean, enticing you to wash the dust from your hair under a waterfall. Descend into the upper Phargam Gol, which is characterized by steep, jagged rocks. A beautiful waterfall blooms off the Khora Bort Glacier from Buni Zom on your left to the north. On hot summer days, the torrent from this massive waterfall may only be traversed in the morning. Large rocks roll down the river bed in the afternoon, making fording impossible. Three to four hours from the pass, camp before the river at Phargam High Camp (3900m) in a grassy location among clean streams. Enjoy the sunset over the upper valley's cliffs and mountains.

Climbers attempting Buni Zom, which was first climbed by a New Zealand expedition in 1957, put their base camp here. A steep narrow gully with loose rocks at Gulabmali leads to the Khora Bort Glacier and Khora Bort Zom (5850m), as well as the way to Buni Zom. It is prudent to wear a climbing helmet. A steep moraine goes beyond the valley to a snowy basin where you can camp. The route above the basin separates and becomes convoluted, necessitating the use of a local guide. Less adventurous climbers can enjoy spectacular views from the adjacent Panorama peak (5690m).

The river is no longer muddy brown in the morning, but a cool, milky white that is easily forded. Descend, cross another glacial side stream, and rejoin the route down the valley, passing by incredible hanging glaciers on either side of Phargam Gol. Above the Phargam settlement, there is a small spring and an unpaved road that connects Phargam to Rahman. Jeeps are scarce, so walk to Rahman on the true left (west) bank of the Laspur River and cross the bridge to Harchin (3000m) on the Gilgit-Chitral route.