Itinerary
The Itinerary for Gokhshal An and Dooni AnĀ is noticeable below
From Chaghbini (2925m), take the trail south along the ridge through open forest to the head of the Ishperudeh stream, passing a spring. (Avoid the ridge top track, which leads to a Class 3 rock face traverse before joining the gentler trail described below.) Then climb a grassy slope to the rocky Ishperudeh ridge. The lowest point, the pass, is a little notch to the south (left) of a broader but higher saddle. Follow a livestock trail (used by cows) up for two hours, passing the confluence with the Class 3 route from the right. Gokhshal An (3720m) is another is 45 minutes to an hour away, with panoramic views from Lowari pass to Buni Zom.
Descended carefully over steep, loose gravel switchbacks to the milder vegetated slopes 30 minutes below. After 10 to 15 minutes, pass a tiny spring, then bridge two small clear streams and follow the trail above the real right bank of the second stream. Instead of continuing into the cedar forest, cross another small brook and follow its true right bank for another fifteen minutes. Reach the valley level in 30 minutes, then follow the route along the true left bank of the Gokhshal stream for another 30 minutes to the tin-roofed game-watchers' home at Gokhshal (2650m). There are walnut trees nearby, as well as a spring alongside willows. The house is located in an incredible amphitheater-like rocky gorge with a surrounding pine-forested boulder area. Unfortunately, cows graze nearby, so there is no grass and excrement heaps beneath the trees.
Cross the stream and ascend the easternmost (first) of three forested spurs from the high ridge that separates the Gokhshal Gol and Dundini Gol. A now-faint former bridle trail contours up one hour to the ridge top (3049m) directly south of Gokhshal shown below. Descend for 10 minutes before leaving the trail and following a very faint game-watching route to the west and south (right).
A fall destroyed the major trail into Dooni Gol. Contour 45 minutes to Dundini Gol (2772m), also known locally as Chhato Ush (lake water), and a nice water and rest stop. Cross a log footbridge and climb 20 minutes steeply to a forested ridge.Ā
Contour south-south-west along the Dooni Gol's true left (west) bank for 30 minutes to reach the stream. Cross it via a snow bridge, which is still present even late in the season, then ascend a grassy hill for 30 minutes following its true right (east) bank to Dooni Ghari (3350m). A little spring among the willows makes this a viable camp spot for hikers heading in the opposite direction.
Continue steeply up switchbacks well above the Dooni Gol's true right (east) bank, passing small stone shelters near to rocks. The dim route is occasionally marked by a few small cairns. Pass beneath a prominent isolated stand of five or six huge cedars for 100 meters. A few way south of trees ascends a gully and emerges onto a grassy ridge with scrub juniper. Tirich Mir appears in the foreground. Continue up the grassy, flower-covered slopes for another hour to Dooni An (3713m), the southern edge of the Chitral Gol watershed. Tirich Mir stands out, while Buni Zom may be seen in the distance. To the west above the several feeder streams of the Dooni Gol is the summer habitat of markhor herds.
Descend from Dooni An and contour the east (left) side of the bowl below the pass. Aim for the north end of the flat plain, where herders' cottages can be seen below on the Chimirsan Gol's true right (west) side. Follow the center Spur all the way to the tip. Cross the creek and arrive at the level area one to 1½ hours after leaving the pass. The huts (ghari in Khowar) of Chimirsan Ghari (3100m) along both banks of the Utak Gol, the stream coming from Utak An (see Utak An under Other Treks,) are just 15 minutes ahead, behind the low Spur at the plain's southern edge. Rumbur and Uchust people herd goats here, both Kalasha and Muslim. Camp on a gently sloping grassy spot with plenty of fresh water.
Descend on old lateral moraine for 30 minutes and cross Utak Gol. A steady descent through 500-year-old cedar woodlands and through minor side streams leads to the start of a canal near Baltum hut (2762m) on the Rodi Gol's south bank in 1½ to two hours. Continue down for another hour, curving through the forest above the real right (west) bank of Chimirsan Gol to Nuristani-style dwellings above the north bank of Jajok Gol. Descend through cornfields along the spur that connects Jajok Gol and Chimirsan Gol, then cross Jajok Gol. After an hour of staying well above Chimirsan Gol's actual right bank, the trail descends the hill dividing Chimirsan Gol and Rumbur Gol to the road head at Shekhanandeh (2250m). Bashgaliandeh was the name given to this village, which is home to Kati-speaking Bashgali tribal members. Converts to Islam are referred to as shekh.
Holiday Overview
This walk includes crossing two mountain passes: Gokhshal An and Dooni An, which is also known as Chimirsan An in Rumbur. The voyage begins in the rough and scenic terrain of Chitral Gol National Park, a sanctuary famous for its rich species, including the endangered markhor.
The markhor, with its characteristic spiral horns, is one of the region's rarest and most sought-after wildlife sightings. Chitral Gol National Park is dedicated to the conservation of this famous species, and the journey provides a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see these amazing creatures in their native environment. Seeing a markhor in the wild is a life-changing and unique event that emphasizes the significance of animal protection.
The hard and often dim routes that take trekkers across Gokhshal An and Dooni An add to the trek's charm. These rough routes not only give thrill seekers an adrenaline rush but also provide spectacular panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The sight of Tirich Mir dominating the landscape is very impressive and serves as a constant companion throughout the voyage.
Aside from the breathtaking views, this hike is ideal for wildlife and birdwatching aficionados. Trekkers may come upon different species of wildlife along the path, such as ibex and perhaps the rare snow leopard. The region's extensive biodiversity adds to the experience, with the chance to see a variety of avian species against the backdrop of rough nature.
Aside from natural beauty, the trip also presents visitors to the Kalasha Valley's rich cultural legacy. The Kalash people live in these valleys and have a distinct culture and way of life that includes colorful festivals and peculiar customs. The walk allows guests to get insights into the customs and lifestyles of these unique people through cultural exchanges and interaction with local communities.
The Gokhshal An and Dooni An trek is an extraordinary trip that combines the beauty of nature, the thrill of exploration, and the importance of wildlife conservation. It welcomes people with an adventurous spirit to embark on a journey across northern Pakistan's remote and pristine landscapes, where the grandeur of the mountains, the appeal of animals, and the richness of culture mix to produce an exceptional and unforgettable experience.